Monday, 5 February 2018

Marina Bay and Mr. Raffles.

Gill's notebook:

Did not sleep well, am. sun & cloud. Metro - Marina Bay, walked through hotel -  V. large and busy. Gardens & super trees. lovely planting. Walked to domes - cloud dome - v. good. Lunch in cafe - ok chicken mayo sandwich. Flower dome - not as good. Walked to Helix Bridge - Raffles statue then hotel. Chinatown for meal - chicken rice - talked to Singapore couple on same table.


The Marina Bay Resort and Casino is too big to photograph


The complex is part of an even bigger re-modelling programme in the Marina Bay area using reclaimed land planted with acres of trees. Among them are two eco-domes (think Eden Project on gigantic scale) and a plantation of super-trees, huge mesh 'mushrooms' which trail tropical creepers designed to make the city's air more oxygen rich.





The Cloud Dome is so big that on the upper levels the mist condenses into cloud. Waterfalls tumble down creating the illusion of a rain forest. All very impressive.



The Helix Bridge connects the Marina Bay development to the older part of the city near. It is all designed for walking and cycling - a bold attempt to imagine urban futures which are greener, more sustainable and encourage a healthy active lifestyle.





In amongst the 'new' Singapore is a statue of Stamford Raffles, the British colonial official who founded modern Singapore in 1819. Though the statue is well looked after there is no explanation of its significance, perhaps because modern Singaporeans a more likely to celebrate post-colonial Singapore.


Further along the street there are more recent statues of Ho-Chi-Min with an explanation of his role in the liberation of South East Asia from western imperialism. I was surprised to see a monument to Deng Xiaoping, China's economic reformer who developed a more market orientated approach to business during the 1980 and popularised the phrase 'one country. two systems'. These days the focus of Singapore is very focused on its leading role as the most ferocious of the Asian tiger economies. The British connection is not denied, but you sense it is a historical tie with little practical relevance to today's Singapore.


That being said, then the design of the Parliament building completed in 1999 is something of a surprise. In a city of towering post-modern skyscrapers the design of the Parliament seems almost anachronistic echoing Art Deco designs of the twenties and thirties. Perhaps sit is the product of innate conservatism, shimmering glass is fine for a bank, but institutions of state must be more sober and august.

After exploring the luxury surroundings of Marina Bay we  headed back to our more modest lodgings at Hotel Bencoolen. The place has proved to be an excellent choice, quite intimate with only 25 rooms, inexpensive but modern and stylish and within easy walking distance of the harbour area and Chinatown. 


One disappointment was the spa pool on the 4th floor terrace was closed for repair - the notice said it would not reopen until the 7th, the day after our departure. However, the work had been early so we were able to relax in the jacuzzi - a great way to rewind after a day sightseeing in equatorial heat.



Tomorrow it's goodbye Singapore hello Auckland. The last time we flew east we stopped-off at Tokyo and Hong Kong, both great places to visit - but at times frenetic and challenging. What is great about Singapore is its relaxed cafe culture. Though it is very cosmopolitan it feels welcoming, the people have a grace and courtesy reminiscent of Tokyo, but it is less formal. I hope we return someday.

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